CLIMB MT. SHUKSAN

[Shéqsan]

North Cascades National Park | 2-3 days | May-Sept

One of the Northwest's most iconic peaks.

Mt. Shuksan (9,127') is one of the most photographed peaks in the North Cascades, with over 3000' of relief above treeline, complete with cascading icefall glaciers, and steep rock faces. Despite its intimidating appearance, this mountain has a couple of fairly moderate routes including the Sulphide Glacier.

The Sulphide Glacier provides an excellent introduction to alpine climbing in the North Cascades. The route ascends the Sulphide to the base of the summit pyramid, where depending on conditions we ascend the Southeast Ridge or the central gully. The summit pyramid is the highlight of this trip, involving 600′ of multipitch climbing on easy alpine rock (or steep snow in early season).

For climbers with a bit more experience, the Fisher Chimneys route on Mt. Shuksan is a North Cascades classic.

MT. SHUKSAN: SULPHIDE GLACIER TOPO MAP

Click on the stars for key locations.

Zoom out to see trailhead and camp locations.

Mt. Shuksan in North Cascades National Park.

DETAILS | the logistics

ITINERARY

We generally recommend at least 3 days for these trips.

DAY 1 — Approach, setup camp, skills review

DAY 2 — Summit day, return to camp

DAY 3 — Pack up camp, descend to trailhead

RATIO

2:1 max

SEASON

May-September

WHERE TO MEET

Varies — see Pre-Trip Info

PRE-TRIP INFO

Information on gear, food, packing, travel and accommodations can be found here: Preparing For Your Climb

Equipment: Mt. Shuksan Gear List PDF

Mt. Shuksan Weather Forecast

REQUIREMENTS

Excellent physical fitness is required for this trip.
You should be able to hike/climb for 1-2 hours at a stretch, taking 10 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours.
You should be able to ascend 3000′ in a day carrying 50+lbs on your back, and 5000′ in a day carrying 30 lbs on your back.
Physical conditioning should not be underestimated – mountaineering is a strenuous activity.
Fisher Chimneys: Previous climbing/mountaineering experience is required. Experience on rock, steep snow/ice, and/or multi-pitch climbs is beneficial.